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But thanks to pollution control the pillars are snow-white, not dirty grey-black as they once were, and the city, home to eight universities and a plethora of museums on a slew of subjects, is no longer a doomed, dust-covered steel town.Among the baroque buildings whose origins go back to the Middle Ages, Reformation and Counter-Reformation, ultra-modern glass confections – monstrosities or delights, depending on your penchant – dot the urban landscape.

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Fortunately, we enter a lock, one of 14 on the 455-mile journey, giving me something else to occupy my drooping mind with.

You can clamber above the village with its ornate blue and white church steeple to the ruins along a historical trail, with cut-out images of the various personages involved in the Lionheart tale, captioned with a little spiel on each’s role.